Halfway day! The middle of our week of hiking and the day we passed the halfway point of the West Highland Way.

Kinda reminds us of the PNW

The trail was still fairly rocky and hilly, but easier going than around the lake. After a stretch through a wooded area, we came out onto open grazing lands with lots of sheep and cows. We got awfully close to some cows that were hanging out on the sides of the trail — including a baby cow nursing its mother. We were careful to move slowly and be very non-threatening as we walked around the nursing cow.

A cow nursing on the trail

As we continued on towards a picturesque farm, we saw a cow walk onto the trail in front of us. We were excited about our bovine guide until he started bellowing in a very angry voice. We let him get a bit ahead of us, and he kept walking along the trail, mooing loudly and sounding rather put out with the world, all the way past the farm until our trail split off from the farm’s driveway. Fortunately, the cow stuck to the road, and hurried off around a hill to quieter pastures.


We made it to the halfway point of the hike a little before lunch, and we took a spur trail down to the railroad hamlet of Crianlarich to find some food. Crianlarich was first established in the 1700s at the junction of two military roads. It remains primarily a travel junction to this day, with two main roads meeting there and trains from Glasgow splitting at Crianlarich to travel on to either Fort William or Oban.

Don't worry, we ate cake

In keeping with this spirit of transit (and also because it sounded cute), we had lunch at the tea room on the platform of the Crianlarich train station. It was indeed cute and had excellent mini Madeira cakes.

It's a viaduct!

In the afternoon we passed under an excellent stone viaduct, crossed the River Fillan, and made our way through more sheep and cow pastures on our way to Tyndrum.

River Fillan outside Tyndrum

Heavy rain started up when we were still a couple miles out of Tyndrum, so we didn’t spend any extra time (or take any photos) of the pretty little lakes and wooded areas that we passed through. We did stop briefly at the site of the battle where Robert the Bruce was defeated by Clan MacDougal in 1306 and at the Loch of the Legend of the Lost Sword, where Robert the Bruce and his army dumped their weapons as they fled. Then we hurried on to Tyndrum to get dry.

Shaggy cows are the best cows